Tuesday 27 April 2010

Going Caracas

Having wandered South America for seven months on a voyage of liberation and self discovery, I´m finally going Caracas.



Thankfully my belongings are largely intact as is my sanity but as for the future of this spectacular publication, well it´s in tatters. One more may follow from the humble sanctuary of Dolphinholme next week but otherwise, my life will revert back to it´s previous, anonymous and blogless self. Blogs aren´t for everyone but they do make a somewhat welcome change from Facebook; solely presenting ones life experiences for people to read if they so wish, rather than forcing them on everybody, every second, of every minute, of every day. James Adams likes this.

In the twelve thousand or so miles I´ve travelled out here, my legs have strengthened, my eyes have opened, my heart has pounded and my finances have grimaced. But despite my now disastrous economic situation, the experiences I´ve had these past few months will stay with me far longer than any subsequent debts. While many people seem to query the need to travel in such a way, I find reason soley in wanting to see more of the world while I still have a pulse which in turn will surely make me a slightly wiser soul. Seeing how people work, live and love on the other side of the planet can only have a positive effect on ones person, if only to appreciate all the things you have.

For me, one of the greatest lessons I´ve learned from travelling alone, is how important the people you suround yourself with are, in terms of shaping you as a person. Though I imagine many people to believe they are who they are and that´s that, I can asure you they´d develop differently if instead they were partnered through life by a Bolivian peasant as opposed as to their best friend down the road. When I´ve travelled, my most enjoyable times have been when I´ve shared them with people who bring the best out of me or compliment me in ways in which I can discover new sides to my character. Don´t get me wrong, I´ve loved the many moments of solitude on this trip but as far as long term happiness goes, it´s best sharing things with people who are good for you.

Shit, times knocking on and I have things to do.

Philosophy aside, my final weekend out here was a belter. On Saturday morning, a team made up of yours truly, Tom, Emily, the English couple of Matt and Rachel, a Canadian duo of Ryan and Spencer, an American cap-wearing girl called Trina and a Bohemian Swede under the name Maria, all met up ready for a trip to the seaside.



Things got off to a stinker though as our guide had already departed for Taganga and we were left to fall under a coke-snorting alcoholic´s orders in our mission to find Palomino some three hours north. We found it via a minibus/coach/jeep combination and what a find. Sat just north of the gringo hotspot of Parque Tayrona near the tip of the Colombian Caribbean coast, we landed on an almost completely desserted four kilometre stretch of beach, lined with palms, bordered by a fresh water river and with a hammock hut on stilts as our home. All this for five pounds a night.





We soon set about making the most of this ludicrous location, playing frisbee and swimming in the refreshing sea. I then got very giddy and went for a long run. On my return, we paid the local fisherman a visit up the beach where we bought one and a half kilos of fresh prawns for around a tenner. That night we cooked up the meaty little devils along with some spaghetti and veg before drenching our smug sundrenched souls in a liquidised haze of rum before hanging out by the campfire. Tom cracked and finally showcased his talents, playing a commendable array of tunes ranging from Coldplay to Bryan Adams with some Coolio rapping along the way. We brought the curtain down on our spellbinding day by pulling up some benches to the waters edge and contemplating life under a blindingly bright Caribbean moon.









On Sunday, the sun and the crashing waves woke me and after papaya and bread for breakfast, I hit the treadmill once more, covering a few miles of sand and a few empty bays along the way. On my return, I joined the others in a vigorous session of lounging, swimming and relaxing on the beach.





The evening meal was an all British affair, with Rachel, Matt, Emily and myself preparing a delightful menu consisting off prawns, fresh coconut rice and vegetables. The throats were lubricated with some more rum and sadly our reserves ran out. We saw out the day on the beach once more before rinsing ourselves in the river and retiring blissfully to our hammocks.





Yesterday we were all pretty slow in getting going but after being fired up by more papaya, bread and honey, I took to the road once more to enjoy my private beaches one last time. I picked up a few shells on the way and gasped for several minutes at the ridiculous surroundings.





Back at HQ, we nibbled on coconuts and briefly played Piggy in the Middle before our jeep arrived to take us home. On the bus back to Santa Marta, we were treated like kings with the highest food-to-miles ratio I´ve ever experienced in South America. During the one and a half hour trip, me and Tom took what was on offer from nearly all of the street vednors, including fried plantains with cheese, ice lollies, fried meat and potato, a sweet pastry and battered maize balls.



Despite feeling a touch bloated, we survived and joined the others for pizza, fruit juice and beer in Taganga where we hung out one final time.

This morning I embraced Tom, Emily, Matt and Rachel as they continued on their travels while I stay here one more night. My time in Taganga was completed with the last fruit juice on my list, curuba con leche, and later I will hit the streets of Santa Marta for the odd souvenir and a thorough going over of the street food stalls.

Tomorrow, the end begins with the start of my twenty hour journey to the Venezuelan hell hole of Caracas, where my flight home departs on Friday via the French dwelling of Paris. Having only being pipped last year by the Mexican city of Ciudad Juarez, the former ´murder capital of the world´ is a final destination I maybe could have done without but I´m sure it should be an entertaining end to my trip. Luckily I have a travel companion lined up, so if I go down, I´ll be taking him with me.

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