With Kobus having left this continent yesterday, I now encounter a brief period in which I aim to get a firm grip once more of the backpacking baton. Having spent 10 days with a true friend from home, my mental proximity to what I've left behind seemed somewhat closer in this period than what it has the sixty days or so prior to this. In order to get into this travelling scene, it's important that too a degree, you put your home life to the back of your mind. Seven months of travel is enough a challenge without worrying excessively about the realities of your impending return. In saying this, the contrast in my mind which Kobus' visit has triggered is of great use to me as it's come at a great time and allowed me to step back from my travels that otherwise I would not have been able to do.
Coincidentally, our last few days in Buenos Aires started off with an evening trip to see the movie Luna Nueva (New Moon) which I believe has had plenty of hype back home but was utter rubbish. Seeing films like this give me hope that if I don't make it in graphic design when I return, at least I'd have a chance of becoming a film director. After recovering from my disbelieving state, we went back to Bobo Hotel for a few Quilmes' on our balcony.
Friday got under way slowly and again we got sidetracked by cinema. This time it was an equally nonsensical but entertaining flick called The Atomic Train. Despite the pouring rain, we did eventually take stock that we were in Buenos Aires and staying in watching runaway trains was no way of doing the city justice.
Our first stop was El Monumental, home to River Plate where we picked up a couple of tickets for Saturday nights game against Estudiantes. We did ask at the hotel whether they could get the tickets for us but we were told they didn't offer seats in this area as they are the cheapest and most dangerously positioned within the stadium. Like previously, the tickets I got cost a fiver whereas the package they offered cost just over fifty quid. Bourgeois 0 Bohemian 1.
Mixing things up a little we made our way to Recoleta and the famous cemetery where Evita is buried. Labelled 'a city within a city', this mini-metropolis houses whole families in eleborate mausoleums, many with front doors, statues and basements. Although most were in immaculate condition, a fair number had fallen into disrepair and through the cracked windows, the stench of death was palpable.
Happy to have a pulse, we trotted on to have a look round the Buenos Aires Design Centre and ended up at Hard Rock Cafe. Kobus being his giddy self ordererd nachos with pork and ten minutes later we were joined by a plate of the stuff big enough to feed a Mexican family of five. This wasn't so much of a problem in itself but we'd booked ourselves in that evening at one of the cities premium steak restaurants, so I hope you can understand the frustrations I had at this point. Eager not to waste money though, we had a good go at it regardless and handed back the waiter a near-empty plate.
In order to make space for the steak that night, we did walk all the way back to the hotel which took a good hour and once back safely, enjoyed some much needed rest, beers and a bath apiece.
Before we knew it, the time had arrived. Not as hungry as we'd have liked, we walked seven blocks to La Cabrera. Soon we located the star of the show, which was the eight hundred gram Bife de Chorizo (rump steak) and nervously we waited.
Although I've had plenty of steak so far on this trip, nothing could have prepared me for what parked itself on our table. The only thing I can find comparable in my mind was the first witnessing of Iguazu Falls. Epic, enormous and overwhelming. The piece of meat was roughly the size of three of my fists and was accompanied by a huge range of side pots. We went on to somehow finish our steak, marvelling constantly at what we were experiencing and also guzzle down a couple bottles of Argentine red.
Eventually we dragged ourselves back to BoBo for some reflective chats and beer.
Slightly worse for wear, we ambled towards the Japanese Gardens on Saturday morning. These provided me with the exact opposite emotions that I'd encountererd the night before at La Cabrera. Fortunately Parque Tres de Febrero was next door and with it's abundance of trees, greenery and a lovely lake to enjoy, slowly our enthusiasm for life was restored. To make the most of the park, we tracked down boats and set out for a good half an hour of leisurely rowing.
After a lengthy afternoon nap in our room, it was back to Recoleta and the Alvear Palace Hotel where afternoon tea was on the cards. Along with the expected cup of tea, we were also served champagne, pastries, sandwiches, cakes and scones, all in a ridiculously elaborate dining hall while being flanked by a wee lady on a harp.
With this very odd mix digested, we lept into a cab to make the short trip uptown to El Monumental in readiness for the evenings football.
Prior to kick-off I was dealt a huge blow as I got my camera batteries confiscated by security as they could be used as missiles once inside the stadium. I was utterly bewlidered and I tried to outline that I was both a tourist and that the idea of throwing rechargable batteries on my budget was an absolutely ridiculous concept. With no sympathy from the man in riot gear and an orange vest, I threw my batteries away. Fortunately, Kobus was still armed.
Inside the stadium, the numbers swelled and with minutes until kick-off, the marching band of drummers duly arrived. From this moment on, me and Kobus were treated to ninety minutes of musical fury. The game offered less but a last-minute equaliser for River Plate from former Argentine star Ariel Ortega ensured all the fans went home happy.
Hit this link for a sense of the bedlum, courtesy of Kobus' camera...
With Kobus' departure iminent, it was only logical that Sunday involved a trip to the San Telmo market where he could pick up a few gifts for friends and family back home. The rain came and went but on the whole we stayed fairly dry. Also jammed into the schedule was a one-stop trip up the old 'Linea A' so Kobus could get a quick pic.
For tea it was a final farewell at La Cabrera for one more mind-blowing steak. Although it didn´t quite reach the heights of our first visit, it was still delicious and the American couple next to us kept us suitably entertained with their characterstic observations.
Yesterday, we packed our bags and said cheerio to BoBo and the collision of our two worlds. After dropping my bags at Palermo House Hostel, we got a cab to the airport and embraced for one final time. The rest of my day was rather subdued and involved little more than writing the odd email and rounding things up in my diary.
Today I caught the Subte to the main bus terminal where I bought my ticket to Salta, the final destination of my stay in Argentina. Another twenty hour journey awaits, as does some time to myself and preparation for this second part of my trip.
Although Kobus may feel lucky in being able to piggy-back my trip and see South America for the very first time, I feel sincerely grateful and fortunate that my time with him has shown me a different side to travelling and given me a greater perspective of how I can go on to enjoy this trip even more.
See you soon buddy.
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